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Saturday 11 February 2017

Boulogne-sur-Mer in the moonlight ...

Do you ever go out for a moonlit stroll? Do you like to wander solitary beneath the stars?

It's one of those activities that you could be forgiven for opting out of. But for me, travelling as I do with the WonderDog, it's a bit of a necessity. When a dog's got to go, a dog's got to go ... if you get my drift.

Sometimes I negotiate r-e-a-l-l-y hard to see if someone else will step up to the plate and do the honours. On Thursday we pitched up in Boulogne-sur-Mer shortly before midnight. It was a cold, joyless night with a cruel wind whistling around the empty streets. After a late room service dinner the others pleaded various (lame) excuses for not venturing forth, and I had to take the WonderDog for his post-prandial ablutions. But here's the thing: the moment I stepped out into the moonlit streets I realised what a HUGE favour they'd done me. This little city by the sea is so atmospheric after dark.

La Porte Neuve, Boulogne-sur-Mer, France
La Porte Neuve, Boulogne-sur-Mer, France



In the very centre of town is an ancient citadel, all built around with heavy medieval walls that date from the thirteenth century. During the day you can go for escorted walks along the battlements, and explore their 17 towers and 4 gates.

The English used to come calling a lot in the old days. They held the Pale of Calais, just up the road, from Edward III's victory at Crecy in 1346 until Mary Tudor carelessly lost the whole shebang in 1558.

The city walls, Boulogne-sur-Mer, France
The city walls, Boulogne-sur-Mer, France

Boulogne, not being very far away, was inevitably fought over between the rival factions as well. It fell to the English on a number of occasions during the Hundred Years War.

  Cathedral Basilica of Notre Dame, Boulogne-sur-Mer, France
Cathedral Basilica of Notre Dame, Boulogne-sur-Mer, France

It was easy to imagine clamouring English foot soldiers at the walls, with the defenders inside hurling missiles at them. In fact I could almost feel the bitter notes of all that passion, an ancient energy, still blowing around on the icy wind as we click-clacked over the cobbles.

The magnificent cupola that features large in most of my photos is that of the Basilica of Notre Dame, which is a wonderful church built on the site of the old Gothic cathedral that once stood here. Work started on the building in 1827, and carried on for a further 50 years thereafter. It was all inspired by a local priest, Benoît Haffreingue, who believed that he had been called upon by God to restore the derelict ruins of the old cathedral, which had been destroyed in the French Revolution. With the support of some powerful backers like Victor Hugo, he raised the funds for the project, but never managed to have the building re-consecrated as a cathedral. The local signs proclaim it to be a cathedral (see the second photo in this post) but I am reliably informed that it is a minor basilica, and not a cathedral.

We took a turn around the main square with its elegant Hôtel de Ville, sprouting a trio of flags over the front door. It announced on its front facade that it had been built in 1734.

And do you see that tall tower lurking in the gloom behind like a silent assassin?

Hôtel de Ville, Boulogne-sur-Mer, France
Hôtel de Ville, Boulogne-sur-Mer, France

Well that's a real gem. I came curiously around the corner of the square and stopped in my tracks at the base of this Leviathan.

The Belfry, Boulogne-sur-Mer, France
The Belfry, Boulogne-sur-Mer, France

This is the Boulogne's 12th century belfry. They say that it's the oldest building in this part of town. Once upon a time it was the keep of the Count of Boulogne's castle. And then it became the seigniorial prison. Apparently it came within a hair's breadth of being destroyed in the Revolution, but the crazies were persuaded to leave it standing because of its commanding view out to sea. It was the only place in town where they had a chance of keeping an eye on the enemy's ships.

The Belfry, Boulogne-sur-Mer, France
The Belfry, Boulogne-sur-Mer, France

We stopped for a moment to gaze up in awe at the beautifully flood-lit facade of the Cathedral Basilica. It was full-on majestic, rising over our heads and puncturing the inky blackness of the sky above.

Cathedral Basilica of Notre Dame, Boulogne-sur-Mer, France
Cathedral Basilica of Notre Dame, Boulogne-sur-Mer, France

And then, of course, we admired the fat little fish with the double tail who lives over the basilica's drinking fountain. 


In 1805 Napoleon amassed over two hundred thousand soldiers of la Grande Armée here in Boulogne, poised to invade England. Things didn't go his way, and England never was invaded, but there must have been such a clamour of activity here in the old town as all those soldiers hung around waiting for their marching orders. Can you imagine the excitement, the anticipation of the soldiers and the irritation of the townsfolk as their streets were overrun by the army?

Cathedral Basilica of Notre Dame, Boulogne-sur-Mer, France
Cathedral Basilica of Notre Dame, Boulogne-sur-Mer, France

Invading les rosbifs is a bit of a theme in this part of the world. It's generally believed that this is where the Emperor Claudius mustered his landing force for the Claudian Invasion of Britain in 43 AD. 

Just outside La Porte Neuve there's a pile of perfectly-cut stone blocks that predate just about everything else.


They were discovered in 1895 when they were excavating the Porte de Calais, and they are believed to date from the end of the third century when they were used in the city's Roman fortifications. 

Boulogne-sur-Mer, France
Boulogne-sur-Mer, France

So, as you can see, the WonderDog and I had quite a stroll. We really must come back again and see it all in daylight!


All the best for now,

Bonny x




1 comment:

  1. This does sound like so much fun...to be out and about at night. Thanks to the needs of Wonder Dog!

    ReplyDelete