My number one, all-time favourite West London walk starts on Church Street, Chiswick, just beside the Hogarth roundabout. The nearest underground station is Turnham Green. If you come by car you could park at the Chiswick House car park, just off the A4/ Great West Road and walk down to Church Street.
And if you do park there, be sure and look in at Hogarth's house as you walk along the A4 towards Church Street. It used to be the great man's country retreat to which he came to escape the hustle and bustle of eighteenth century London. Back then he would have looked out at gently rolling meadows with a sleepy cow track running by. Today, were he to return, he'd think he'd landed in an earthquake zone with the traffic thundering past, and shaking the foundations of his lovely home.
Hogarths' House, Chiswck with his old mulberry tree still standing in the foreground |
Pop in if you have a moment and aren't in the company of your pooch (it's not an open-to-dogs venue), and enjoy the atmosphere. It's a timeless sort of place - if you're deaf to the din of the A4/ Great West Road outside.
As you cross the Hogarth Roundabout (there is an underpass so you don't have to risk a kamikaze chicken run) spare a glance for Chiswick Square, the smallest square in London, which consists of two houses on each side and the historic Boston House at the back. All three houses date from the 1680's.
Chiswick Square, the smallest square in London |
Walk down Church Street towards the river, and you will pass the Old Burlington on your left and the lovely church of Saint Nicholas (on your right) where the great man (Hogarth) is buried. You can read a post I did about the Saint Nicholas churchyard here: Saint Nicholas churchyard
Front Facade of the Church of Saint Nicholas, Chiswick |
The Old Burlington is now in private hands. But back in the day it was a well-known public house called the Burlington Arms. The notorious highwayman, Dick Turpin, is said to have celebrated his wedding breakfast here. It still has four front doors, outside one of which is a cupboard in which the drunken and disorderly used to be locked up for the night.
The Old Burlington, one-time hang-out of Dick Turpin |
Church Street, Chiswick |
Church of Saint Nicholas |
Now carry on down to the river, and take the little path on the right that runs along the side of those newish-looking, red brick houses. It will take you to the Thames tow path that runs along the riverbank.
Look over to the left when you reach the river and you will see the island of Chiswick Eyot (pronounced 'eight' by those in the know). I think you'll have to admit that this is not London as we know it. What a riverscape! Here it is one day at low tide:
Chiswick Eyot, River Thames at low tide |
And here it is another, sunnier, day at high tide:
Chiswick Eyot, River Thames at high tide |
Keep on going on the tow path, and it will take you past all the newly-built housing and out into the relative wilds of Duke's Meadows. Ah, this is more like it. Now keep on going, past the bandstand, and on towards Barnes Bridge. You'll see lots of traffic on the river. It's still a busy place.
Rowers on the Thames |
When you get to Barnes Bridge, you need to go up the steps and across the bridge to the Surrey shore.
Barnes Bridge from the Middlesex shore |
Now you want to turn left and follow the elevated pathway that hugs the river and gives you some stonking views of the Middlesex shore. You will see the Bull's Head public house on your right. Carry on to the start of the Leg of Mutton nature reserve, and follow the path to the left through the trees along the riverbank. As you go, watch out for the funky cow that someone has put out to pasture on their upper-storey roof terrace.
Follow on down the tow path, which leads you through the woods and on around the edge of the Leg of Mutton wildlife reserve.
Watch out again for the rowers. There are lots of eights out on the river at all times of the year.
Girls' rowing eight |
Hammersmith Bridge and some recent storm damage |
Hammersmith Bridge |
The Rutland Arms and the Blue Anchor |
The Dove |
Sign above the door of the Dove |
Now that you've wet your whistle in one or other or all of the fabulous pubs on offer, carry on along the river, past the colourful little waterborne community.
Take a look, back over your shoulder at the splendid view of Hammersmith Bridge.
Hammersmith Bridge |
Now just keep on along the Upper Mall, which leads into Chiswick Mall. The river-side homes along here are to die for: really, really lovely properties. The only snag is that the Mall is prone to flooding. The folk who live here follow tide tables to figure out when it's safe to park their cars outside, and if you take a closer look at most of the front gates you'll notice that they come with high-tech hermetic seals and waterproof screens to keep the river out.
Chiswick Eyot from the Chiswick Mall |
If you'd like to do the walk, here's a map to help you find your way. I've marked the route in purple arrows and put a big house in where Hogarth's old digs are.
Best Dog walks in West London: Part 2: Thames Tow Path Chiswick/ Hammersmith/ Barnes |
Just a word of caution: if you do this walk on Boat Race day (Sunday 6th April, 2014) it's going to be very, very busy and you'll be really pressed to get a table in any of the lovely waterside pubs. The Boat Race is a top event, and if you want to come to see it, that's great, but if you'd rather enjoy a peaceful walk along a lovely bit of the river, I'd save this one for another date.
All the best and happy hiking,
All the best and happy hiking,
Bonny
x
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